There are two main ways in by sea — from Ullapool to Stornoway on Lewis, and from Uig on Skye to Tarbert on Harris — which makes it easy to arrive by one and leave by the other. Flying saves most of a day.
Routes at a glance
| From | How | Time | Rough cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ullapool | CalMac ferry to Stornoway | about 2½–2¾ hours | around £10–12 on foot; car fare extra — book ahead |
| Uig (Isle of Skye) | CalMac ferry to Tarbert (Harris) | about 1¾ hours | around £8 on foot; car fare extra — book ahead |
| Inverness | Car or Citylink coach to Ullapool | about 1¼ / 1½ hours | coach around £15 |
| Glasgow / Edinburgh / Inverness | Loganair flight to Stornoway | about 40 min – 1¼ hours | varies widely; book early |
| Stornoway | Car to Calanais / Tarbert / Luskentyre | about 30 min / 1 hr / 1½ hours | fuel |
| Leverburgh (Harris) | CalMac ferry to Berneray (for the Uists) | about 1 hour | a few pounds on foot |
Times and prices are approximate and change with season and booking date — check operators for current timetables and fares.
By ferry
The Ullapool–Stornoway ferry is the main lifeline, normally with two sailings a day; coaches from Inverness are timed to meet it. The Uig–Tarbert route links Harris with Skye and has fewer sailings, sharing a ship with the North Uist service. On both, vehicle space sells out in summer — book as soon as your dates are fixed. The Minch can be rough, and sailings are cancelled or retimed in bad weather and occasionally for technical reasons; check CalMac’s service status before you travel and never plan a same-day flight home after a crossing. Island-hopping “Hopscotch” tickets cover several routes in one booking.
By air
Stornoway Airport, three miles from the town, has Loganair flights from Glasgow, Edinburgh and Inverness. Fares are high unless booked early, but flying one way and taking the ferry the other makes good use of a short trip. Hire cars can be collected at the airport; reserve well in advance, because the island fleet is small.
Getting around
A car is close to essential for seeing much. The main spine road from Stornoway to Tarbert and Leverburgh is good; side roads to beaches and townships are single-track with passing places — see our driving etiquette. Watch for sheep. Buses link Stornoway with the west side, Ness, Tarbert and Leverburgh on weekdays and Saturdays, but services are infrequent and do not run on Sundays. Cycling the length of the islands on the Hebridean Way is popular; the wind usually blows from the south-west.
Sundays
On Lewis and Harris, Sunday is still kept as a day of rest by many islanders. Most shops, many cafés and attractions and some filling stations are closed, and there are no buses. Ferries and flights do operate. Buy food and fuel on Saturday, and book Sunday dinner at your hotel. The Uists and Barra, which are largely Catholic, are more relaxed.
