Where to base yourself
Stornoway
The only town: a few hotels, guesthouses and a hostel, supermarkets, fuel, restaurants and the ferry terminal. The practical base for Lewis, 30–45 minutes from the west-side sights and the Butt of Lewis.
West side of Lewis and Uig
B&Bs, self-catering cottages and restored blackhouses close to Calanais and the Atlantic beaches of Uig and Bhaltos. Remote, quiet and spectacular.
Tarbert and North Harris
A village on the narrow neck between two sea lochs, with the Uig ferry, the distillery, a couple of hotels and shops. Central for both the beaches and the hills.
West and South Harris
Scattered houses, guesthouses and luxury self-catering overlooking Luskentyre, Scarista and Leverburgh. The dream location — and the first to book out.
Food & drink
Island produce is superb: langoustines, scallops, crab and salmon, Hebridean lamb, and the famous Stornoway black pudding, which has protected status. Smokehouses, a growing number of good restaurants and several beachside food trucks and honesty-box bakeries make eating a pleasure — but options are thin outside Stornoway and Tarbert, opening hours are short and almost everything shuts on Sunday. Reserve dinner, carry a picnic, and try the local gin and the new single malt from Harris.
Tips: saving money and staying safe
- Plan around Sunday: shop and fuel up on Saturday and arrange Sunday meals in advance.
- Book accommodation, ferry and hire car early — all three are in short supply from June to August.
- The wind is constant: bring a windproof jacket, a hat and layers even in July. On the plus side, it keeps the midges down.
- Sea temperatures stay around 10–13 °C in summer. Beaches are unsupervised; beware rip currents and swim within your depth.
- Fuel stations are far apart outside Stornoway and Tarbert; some are card-operated and open at all hours, others close on Sunday.
- A few words of Gaelic are appreciated: madainn mhath (good morning), tapadh leat (thank you).
- Machair and dunes are fragile and farmed. Park only in marked places and keep off growing crops.
Sample plans
Two days
- Day 1 (Lewis): Calanais at opening, Dun Carloway, Gearrannan and Arnol; Stornoway and Lews Castle in the late afternoon.
- Day 2 (Harris): drive south over the Clisham pass to Tarbert, on to Luskentyre and Seilebost, and back by the Golden Road.
Three days
- Add the north of Lewis — the Butt of Lewis and Port of Ness —
- or the far west: the vast sands of Uig, where the Lewis chessmen were found.
Four days or more
- Spend two nights on Harris: walk at Hushinish, visit the distillery and a tweed weaver.
- Or take the Leverburgh ferry to Berneray and continue through the Uists to Barra, returning to the mainland by ferry to Oban or Mallaig.
Where to stay: Outer Hebrides: Lewis & Harris
Royal Hotel
A traditional hotel on the harbour front in the centre of Stornoway, a short walk from the ferry terminal.
Cabarfeidh Hotel
A comfortable modern hotel on the edge of Stornoway, close to the wooded grounds of Lews Castle.
Hotel Hebrides
A contemporary small hotel beside the ferry pier in Tarbert, the handiest base for the beaches of Harris.
