Between Inverness and Aberdeen the Highlands change character. The mountains here are not jagged peaks but a vast granite plateau — the Cairngorms — holding five of the six highest summits in the UK, arctic-alpine wildlife and the largest remnants of the old Caledonian pine forest. The national park that protects them is the biggest in Britain, and its main resort, Aviemore, is the country’s outdoor playground in summer and its ski base in winter.
From these hills the River Spey flows north-east through barley fields to the sea, and along its lower course lies Speyside, home to around half of all Scotland’s malt whisky distilleries — famous names such as Glenfiddich, The Macallan and The Glenlivet among them. South over the mountain roads is Royal Deeside, where Queen Victoria and Prince Albert built Balmoral and the Royal Family still spends late summer.
Highlights
- A distillery tour and tasting on the Malt Whisky Trail
- The whisky villages of Dufftown, Aberlour and Craigellachie
- Pine-forest walks at Loch an Eilein and the beach at Loch Morlich
- Meeting the Cairngorm reindeer and the animals of the Highland Wildlife Park
- A steam train on the Strathspey Railway
- Balmoral, Braemar and the drive over the Snow Roads
How long to stay
Two days make a good introduction: one in the forests and lochs around Aviemore, one among the distilleries. Add a third to cross to Royal Deeside. Whisky enthusiasts and walkers could happily fill a week.
Best base
Aviemore is the practical base for the national park and has the railway. For whisky, stay in Craigellachie, Aberlour or Dufftown, so that you can walk or take a taxi to dinner and the bar. Grantown-on-Spey sits handily between the two. For Balmoral, choose Braemar or Ballater.
