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The front of the Palace of Holyroodhouse with its turreted towers

Edinburgh: Practical Travel Guide

Where to stay, what to eat, how to save money and how to spend one, two or three days in Edinburgh.

Where to base yourself

Old Town

The Royal Mile, the Grassmarket and the streets around the university. The most atmospheric place to stay and the closest to the main sights; also the busiest and, in places, the noisiest at night.

New Town and the West End

Georgian streets north of Princes Street with the city’s grander hotels, good restaurants and easy access to both stations and the tram. A calmer base five to ten minutes’ walk from the Old Town.

Leith and Stockbridge

Leith, the old port, has waterside restaurants and a younger feel, 20 minutes away by tram. Stockbridge is a villagey quarter of delis, pubs and a Sunday market, a 15-minute walk downhill from Princes Street.

Southside and Newington

South of the Old Town, towards Holyrood Park: guesthouses, student cafés and generally lower prices, with frequent buses to the centre.

Food & drink

Edinburgh eats well at every price. Try haggis, neeps and tatties in a traditional pub, Cullen skink, and seafood from the Forth and the west coast. Leith is home to several of the city’s Michelin-starred kitchens, while the Old Town and the Southside are full of inexpensive cafés. For whisky, the bars around the Royal Mile and the New Town stock hundreds of malts and are happy to advise; a guided tasting is a good first step. Book restaurants ahead in August and December.

Tips: saving money and staying safe

  • The national museums and galleries are free, as are Arthur’s Seat, Calton Hill, the Royal Botanic Garden (glasshouses charged) and St Giles’ Cathedral.
  • Buy castle tickets online: cheaper than at the gate and guaranteed entry.
  • A visitor levy of 5% of the room rate applies to paid stays from 24 July 2026 (on up to the first five nights). Check whether your quoted price includes it.
  • In August room prices can double or triple. If the festivals are not your reason for coming, choose another month — or stay in Glasgow and commute by train.
  • Use contactless on Lothian Buses and trams; daily fares are capped automatically.
  • The city is safe, but crowds on the Royal Mile during the Fringe attract pickpockets. Keep phones and wallets zipped away.
  • Cobbles, steps and hills are hard on feet and wheels: wear flat, grippy shoes.

Sample plans

One day

  • Edinburgh Castle at opening time.
  • Walk down the Royal Mile, with St Giles’ and a close or two.
  • Lunch in the Grassmarket; Victoria Street and Greyfriars.
  • Late afternoon at the National Museum or Holyrood; sunset on Calton Hill.

Two days

  • Day 1 as above.
  • Day 2: climb Arthur’s Seat early, then the Palace of Holyroodhouse.
  • Afternoon in the New Town: Princes Street Gardens, the National Gallery, Dean Village.
  • Evening whisky tasting or a ghost tour underground.

Three days

Where to stay: Edinburgh

The Balmoral Hotel

The grand railway hotel with the clock tower at the east end of Princes Street, directly above Waverley station — the landmark five-star address.

Apex City of Edinburgh Hotel

A modern four-star on the Grassmarket, right below the castle rock and a few minutes’ walk from the Royal Mile.

Ten Hill Place, WorldHotels Distinctive

A quiet, well-run hotel on the Southside near the university and the National Museum, about ten minutes’ walk from the Royal Mile.

Good to know

Edinburgh: FAQs

Frequently asked questions

How many days do you need in Edinburgh?

Two full days for the main sights; three or four if you want museums, neighbourhoods and a day trip.

Is Edinburgh walkable?

Very, though it is hilly. Most visitors walk everywhere in the centre and use the tram or a bus only for Leith and the airport.

Is Edinburgh expensive?

Accommodation is the big cost, especially in August and at Hogmanay. Food and transport are in line with other British cities, and many major sights are free.

What should I wear?

Layers and a waterproof at any time of year, and comfortable shoes. The wind on the castle esplanade and on Arthur’s Seat is cold even in summer.

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