Where to base yourself
Tobermory
The island’s only town: hotels, guesthouses, a hostel, pubs, restaurants, a supermarket and the wildlife-cruise operators. Lively and pretty, at the northern tip — a long drive from Iona.
Craignure and the east coast
Beside the main ferry terminal, with a large hotel, an inn and a campsite, and Duart Castle nearby. Convenient for arrivals and departures and central for both ends of the island.
The Ross of Mull and Iona
Fionnphort and Bunessan have B&Bs, an inn or two and the Staffa boats. Iona has two small hotels, a hostel and a few guesthouses; staying overnight, after the day visitors have gone, is the best way to feel the island’s calm. Book far ahead.
Oban
On the mainland, with the widest choice of hotels and restaurants and the railway station. A workable base for day tours, and the place to spend the night before an early ferry.
Food & drink
Seafood is the reason to eat here. Oban calls itself the seafood capital of Scotland, and the green shack on the ferry pier is an institution; on Mull, look for hand-dived scallops, langoustines, mussels from Loch Spelve and oysters, along with island lamb, venison and farmhouse cheese from near Tobermory. Tobermory and Oban each have a historic distillery. Outside the main villages, places to eat are few, keep short hours and are often closed in winter — carry a picnic for a day on the Ross of Mull or the west coast, and reserve dinner.
Tips: saving money and staying safe
- Book the car ferry early, and book boat trips to Staffa and Lunga a few days ahead in summer.
- Check CalMac’s service status before travelling, and leave a buffer before any flight or long-distance train.
- Allow far more driving time than distances suggest: average 25–30 mph on single-track roads.
- On Iona, walk beyond the abbey: within 20 minutes you will have a beach to yourself.
- Bring waterproofs and warm layers for boat trips, even on sunny days, and something for seasickness if you are prone.
- Fuel is available at Tobermory, Salen, Craignure and Fionnphort only. There are few ATMs; cards are widely accepted.
- Watch wildlife from a distance: do not approach eagle nests, seals with pups or otters, and keep dogs on leads near livestock and nesting birds.
Sample plans
One day (from Oban)
- Take a “three isles” tour: morning ferry to Craignure and coach across Mull.
- Boat to Staffa and Fingal’s Cave.
- Two hours on Iona for the abbey and a beach.
- Evening ferry back to Oban for seafood on the pier.
Two days
- Day 1: ferry to Mull, Duart Castle, then north to Tobermory for the afternoon and night.
- Day 2: drive the west coast by Calgary Bay and Loch na Keal to Fionnphort; Iona in the afternoon; late ferry from Craignure or a night on the Ross.
Three days
- Add a wildlife day: the Treshnish Isles for puffins in season,
- a whale-watching cruise from Tobermory,
- or a guided eagle and otter tour.
- Heading north afterwards? Take the Tobermory–Kilchoan or Fishnish–Lochaline ferry towards Fort William.
Where to stay: Isle of Mull, Iona & Staffa
Isle of Mull Hotel & Spa
A large, modern hotel with a pool and spa on the bay at Craignure, a few minutes from the main ferry terminal.
Park Lodge Hotel
A small, friendly hotel in upper Tobermory, a short walk downhill to the harbour front.
The Perle Oban Hotel & Spa
A stylish hotel on the Oban seafront opposite the railway station and ferry terminal — ideal the night before a sailing.
